Monday, 16 December 2013

Sagra

Simple, seasonal Italian fare.

I really can't remember exactly what I ate. I was really lazy taking notes.

There was some kind of just-set cheesy goodness and a nice squid something for entrée.

The main was slow braised goat with cavolo nero. I will not forget that dish in hurry. The best.

Other dishes included silky house-made pasta with a shit-load of cheese, and a seriously tasty spatch-cock dish.

Prosecco and Pinot.

I know this review is short. It is late, and have yoga in the morning. Go check this place out though, it's damn fine. The small, seasonal menu changes regularly.

62 Stanley St
Darlinghurst
http://www.sagrarestaurant.com.au/

Wednesday, 2 October 2013

Depot


Chef Al Brown is New Zealand’s answer to Jamie Oliver, with a chain of successful books, restaurants and TV series to his name. Despite all this he still regularly oversees the pass at Depot in Auckland, New Zealand, something many celebrity chefs give up not long after the ink dries on their cookbook contact.

Depot is a share-plate venue with a décor of a cobbled together garage, if that garage was located in a suburb of designers with a really good council clean-up to select from. Outside are heaters and low tables for huddling over the warm offerings from the kitchen. Inside you'll find cocktail-height seating arrangements and two kitchens, one cold, one hot, both open for public viewing pleasure.

The relaxed vibe is immediately evident in the drinks list with jugs of cider and house wine on tap. Despite my snobbery, the house wine is pretty damn decent. Al Brown’s focus is on using the less popular cuts and meats and making them into something delicious. Fresh oysters and clams in NZ are a given. They are creamy, briny, brilliant. The pulled pork tacos are a good balance of meat, a hint of spice, definitely a westernised version of the Mexican classic. The fish sliders (mini burgers) are just perfect. The fish is perfectly cooked, the buns are a soft and white. They disappear quickly. Bone marrow roasted till it is soft a gelatinous, served with thin slivers of bread toasted to crouton-crunchiness is salty and rich. For dessert we opt for the sugar pie. Initially I worry it will be too sweet. The filling is halfway between an egg custard and butterscotch sauce. It has all the rich moorishness of butterscotch without the overt sweetness. The pastry is delicate and short. A truly standout dish. If you find yourself in Auckland this pace will leave you with fond memories of a city with access to some of the best produce the world has to offer.  

http://www.eatatdepot.co.nz/

Monday, 16 September 2013

Boston


Ah yes. The city of the Tea Party, Red Sox, and Mark Whalberg; Bostonians enjoy their rough yet warm and welcoming reputation. It is a history-steeped city full of Irish hospitality (take that how you will) and packed full of intellectuals who have attended one of the many fine institutions in the area. Food is not a thing many people venture to Boston for, beyond the local tradition of clam chowder (‘chowda’), oysters and Boston cream pie. Despite this I have found that wherever there are young, ambitious people there are bound to be a few dining gems. I didn’t get round to everywhere I wanted to. I have listed at the bottom of this article those places that came highly recommended but that I just couldn’t fit into my schedule, or my stomach.

Drink

One thing you need to know about Boston; this is a Barbara Lynch town. The woman has about seven restaurants, all of which do an insane level of business. This is her first venture into the liquid side. A hidden, underground speakeasy beneath her casual Italian offering (Sportello; see below) with a bar that zig-zags across the floor space so that every customer gets the best seats in the house. There is no cocktail list, instead the team here concoct you a drink based on your mood and preferences. I start easy; a tequila based negroni. They do a top-notch job. Next I challenge them to make me something with Hendricks and St. Germain. The result is an MOP (Means of Preservation), a martini minus the slap. It contains the aforementioned, as well as vermouth, celery bitters and grapefruit. New all-time favourite. Even better than the Hendricks with Szechuan bitters at Mr. Wong’s (Sydney). I round things off with a Rum based blazer, perfectly prepared by Will Thompson, who is more than happy to prop up against the bar and talk shop. Here they hack the ice up from once huge block using Japanese cleavers ensuring that the size of ice cube they put in your glass is suited to the drink you are partaking of. Food-wise they have a selection of small plates designed to be shared or eaten solo. Apparently the burgers here are amazing. I tried on two occasions to get one, both times they had already sold out! A great endorsement in itself. Instead I have the griddled (their spelling) cheese (jaffle) with orange and caramelised fennel. Orange and fennel are a classic, but adding them to a cheese toastie is the best idea ever. I’m going to be gourmet-ing my toasties from now on! If you only get to one place while you are in Boston, get here.


Sportello

Upstairs from Drink is Sportello, a casual osteria with a similar sit-at-the-bar format. This gives you a better view of the open kitchen. The bar again takes up most of the space, with only one or two tables for larger tables. Sportello also has a bakery, desert, takeaway counter that is stocked with items baked fresh by the team each day. More than once I stopped in to pick up their special pastry of the day, the cronut (a croissant-doughnut hybrid) is particularly nice. If you have time to sit and enjoy lunch (or brunch from 10:30 am on weekends) I advise you do so. Soft polenta with lamb ragu is tasty, however I could have done with more lamb. Cream is added to the polenta so it is mega-rich. A stock-based version might have been better suited. The aperol spritz washes it down nicely once it finally arrives. On the second occasion I had the chicken breast, heirloom carrot and barley salad. While they really stretch the definition of salad, (there was more protein than green, and it was warm) this dish is one of the best chicken dishes I have ever eaten. It is juicy, and tender with crispy skin. The entire dish is perfectly seasoned and well balanced with the earthy barley complementing the sweet chicken and al dente baby carrots. The waiter even throws in some free macarons (which are pretty lack-luster, jam instead of ganache? Really?). They have a fun selection of ice tea mocktails, each named after one of the staff members. The ginger and green tea (Monica? I forget) is refreshing and not overly sweetened. I didn’t try any of their pasta, but judging from the happy noises from fellow diners, it must be pretty good.


Beehive

Even if you aren’t going to eat here, you need to check this place out. It is in Boston’s trendy South End and is fairly unassuming from the street. The bar is at ground level, but the real fun is downstairs; an underground jazz bar! The place has a really bohemian/New Orleans feel to it, an effect only magnified when you are hanging out with a bunch of Quebecians! The furniture is mismatched and squished together, red velvet drapes hang from exposed brick walls, waiters in vests ferry copious amounts of wine to tables. It is chaos, and it is wonderful! The menu celebrates comfort home food with a French bistro twist. Think blackened fish tacos or lemon sole with clam sauce. I opt for the tuna tartare; raw tuna with all the standard steak tartare trimmings. Light and refreshing. In Boston this is the place to party!


Mare Oyster Bar

Oysters are somewhat of an institution in Boston and the best ones I sampled were at Mare Oyster Bar. This little restaurant would be at home along any of Sydney’s beaches; the smallish room is blue with white accents, a large bar runs down one side of the room behind which a large mirror touts today’s oyster selections and specials. The French windows are thrown wide open to admit summer’s cooling evening air and snatches of street performer music. The beautiful people linger at tables over glasses of crisp white wine. My new Boston friend, Bubbles, a Brit ex-pat bring me here once she hears (inevitably) how into food I am. Can I just say – thank you! As we settle into our table, sticking out like sore thumbs I am flabbergasted by the number of oysters on offer. How on earth am I going to choose? Luckily the good people at Mare have this covered. The oysters are listed on a small slip of paper with their region, size and taste described. You can then fill in the sheet as you desire; one of some varieties, three of another. Each one is absolutely perfect. For mains I opt for some crisp-skinned salmon with white-bean puree and roasted fennel. The salmon is perfectly cooked and all the components work well together, but it isn’t anything I haven’t tried before. Bubbles opts for the lemon angel hair pasta with pan-seared diver scallops. The scallops are beautifully plump gems and the pasta is tasty. A solid meal, go for the oysters.


Papagayo

So due to proximity Mexican food in the U.S.A. is meant to be worlds ahead of Mexican anywhere else (save Mexico I guess) so I have to try at least one right? This place is close to the Boston convention centre so due to the persuasive ways of proximity, this is where I end up. This place is casual as they come, with bare wooden furniture and heaps of space to plant your bum. They have s huge selection of tequila which I would love to sample a hefty amount of, but as I am here on work I don’t think that would be a terribly good idea. They have table-side preparation of ceviche and guacamole. The ceviche is zingy but bulked out with prawns, so the beautiful fish becomes a bit lost. The guacamole on the other hand is stunning. I don’t even need nacho chips to accompany it, I could just eat it with a spoon! I get some tacos al pastor, the huge portion of meat is tender but bland and served with a pineapple salsa. The refried beans are essentially mush. It’s filling and cheap.    


Top of the Hub - Prudential Towers

The main reason to visit this place is to check out the view. Boston is no New York, but watching the sunset over the bay while listening to live jazz while enjoying some wine and a lobster roll makes this place the perfect touristy guilty pleasure.


Barrington Coffee Roasters

They have great coffee guys! As in a beautiful espresso coffee with perfectly heated milk. I went here every morning for my daily pep-up. The shop is mainly polished concrete with solid wooden furniture; the main business here is take away, as such there aren’t many places to perch yourself. They also have a nice selection of pastries. For breakfast though I am unable to go past the toasted muesli with some lovely sheep’s milk yogurt with ginger.


Artu

A lovely casual Italian eatery with plenty of space to perch yourself at the bar to eat if (like me) you are traveling solo. The staff are really helpful with choosing a nice American pinot noir, and the lemon sole I order with quinoa is beautifully cooked. I keep overhearing snippets of conversation, some in Italian, some with a thick Boston accent. I tune into a conversation in time to hear ‘the whole family died in that house…’ and tune out. Go for the food, and to spot a mobster.


Places I wanted to try but just couldn’t squeeze in… 

The Butchery

Cappolo

B & G Oysters

No. 9 Park

Menton

 

Monday, 1 July 2013

Sticky Bar

Apparently when my friends invite me out for dinner they feel the need to impress me. The benefit of this is they take me to their favourite local eatery. It is a very personal affair; they hope I love it as much as they do. It's kind of like meeting your significant other's family for the first time. The HUB (as in network, not the other kind) mentioned a $15 Wednesday roast including a glass of wine at Sticky Bar. Sweet. Grab those bikes, get our trendy on and let's go.

A blank double storey white building greets us. There is no clear way in. The HUB leads me round the back of the building where a sign indicates we need to press the button and say the secret password 'Wednesday roast' to gain entry. How covert. The Chef lets us in, we park our bikes and head up a series of barely lit stairs. The first floor opens up into a bar space with two huge communal dining tables in a sunken space off to the left. Apparently they focus on functions here, but do the occaisional dining night where anyone can grab a seat and have a feed. Up another floor to sticky bar proper where chalk board walls display the days specials, the wine selection and an impressive sketch that changes regularly (today it's a young Charlie Sheen). The furniture is a mix of beat up elegance and solid wood.

We order two veal roasts with a sardine bruschetta to start. The bruschetta consists of zesty sardines on a broadbean paste with nice sourdough, a really enjoyable dish. The veal is perfectly cooked, served with mash that could be a bit smoother and somewhat boring 'slaw style salad, sans mayo. Wine is a shiraz from the Margaret River. Fine as a wine to go with dinner, but nothing special.

For a Wednesday night feed Sticky bar gets my vote. The atmosphere is cosy and chilled, and for $15 it is a really good deal.

Mecca


Coffee aficionados know Mecca does an excellent brew. Whether you like it espresso, filter, cold drip or siphon, they have you covered. It explains why they quickly went from one shop front on King st to a further two in Ultimo and Circular Quay. Living in The Mont (Pyrmont) gives me convenient access to Mecca's Ultimo incarnation, which is probably the most spacious of the lot. Polished concrete floors, sturdy wooden logs and school-yard metal chairs create a minimal fuss decor. The morning-rush regulars rarely pause long enough to examine the Brasserie Bread pastries tantalisingly stacked near the till. But if you stay a while folks you'll find the breakfast here is worth a look-in.

Now this is not the place to go if you want a huge fry-up that leaves you questioning the availability of space for oxygen in your over-crammed body. Instead they have a nice selection of nicely sized breakfasts ranging from the typical continental offerings of pastries and toast with a selection of preserves to poached eggs on toast (no scrambled or fried varieties offered here) with accompaniments such as tomato and basil, pickled eggplant and salami, all with a lovely tomato relish. The lunch menu is Panini dominated with crowd pleasers like bresaola, parmesan and rocket, and leg ham, Dijon and cheese. There is also a roast pork sandwich that teases me. But breakfast. Eggs; definitely.

I get the pickled eggplant option. It is an interesting one. The eggplant is nicely pickled, having a sweet, tart flavour that cuts through the rich salami and eggs. The eggplant has retained its firmness giving the dish a good dollop of texture. The HUB gets the granola with yogurt and stewed rhubarb (trying to be healthy or something, seriously have you read the sugar content of that stuff?). No complaints arise. Crunchy, not overly sweet, nice. The coffee is wonderful (as always). It’s a great place to treat yourself to breakfast before a long day at work.

 
Mecca

646 Harris St Ultimo

Mon-Fri:          7:00 am – 4:00 pm

Sat:                  8:00 am – 3:00 pm

http://meccaespresso.com/

Wednesday, 19 June 2013

Melbourne

Had a little sneaky visit to Melboure in February for a conference and got around to a few places I wanted to share. I know it is now May, but I'm a busy lady alright? Besides everyone has their own favourites when they get down to Melbourne; those hidden gems they proudly dsiscuss when anyone asks where they should go when they visit Melbourne. Here are a few of my choices:
Mamsita: The hip place to be at present in Melbourne. Queues down the stairs, waiting an hour plus for a table, minimal seating but some amazing Mexican food washed down with excellent margaritas. If you get in early you can grab a spot at the window and do some good old people watching. Recommend: the pork loin with almonds and pomegranate.
St Ali: Great little coffee joint on Southbank. I had the pork terrine sandwich. A little cumbersome and dry to eat, but tasty. I spent a good couple of hours reading a book in the corner sipping coffee and just watching the comings and goings of people. Recommend: the coffee!
Cumulus Inc: A licensed breakfast and lunch joint in the Melbourne CBD that is super sleek all over. The menu is classics done exceedingly well. The full English comes with smoked tomato, blood sausage bacon and fried eggs. Each individual component is perfection; the heirloom tomato is strong enough to cut through all the other rich components. The bloody mary here kicks arse and so do the freshly baked lemon curd filled madelines. Recommend: madelines.
Gigi Baba: Turkish styled share plates in one of the best fit-outs I have ever seen. Wall to wall rugs, long filament light bulbs and a large central marble bar make this place cosy and cool. The eggplant dip is green and, while still smoky, has a vibrant flavour you don’t get in most babaganoush. The lamb cutlet was beautifully cooked in another dish we had. There was a chocolate and prune cake for desert. I think it was a special, but if they have it on the menu for the love of god get it! The prunes add a complexity to the chocolate that take this thing to the next level. Recommend: that chocolate-pruney-cakey thingo.

Wednesday, 12 June 2013

Tapavino

Apologies for not sharing this place with you sooner. I have been a total restaurant-hog, for which I feel incredibly guilty. 'How good is this place?' you wonder, that I would neglect my duty to infom you of good places to eat. If I told you that in one week I went four times (twice on the same night one occaision) will you start to get a picture?

Tapavino, as the name implies, does tapas and wine. Forget the fried, oily stodge that a lot of places try to pass off as tapas. This place is all about fresh, bright flavours with seperate parts of the menu dedicated to the sea and land. Jamon of course gets its own section. The pumpkin parfait is an amazing spicy, salty-sweet puree that spruiks the tongue for subsequent dishes. Dishes like tuna crudo with spicy roast almonds and sherry dressing stand out. Tender strips of tuna contrast with the satisfying crunch of crushed almonds. This dish is everything.  Order it. Now. Seriously, stop reading and go get some.
Back? Ok.

The pork and duck terrine really celebrates the flavours of each meat. A special of slow roast lamb shoulder with yogurt, pomegranate and mint is served sitting in its own juices. Make sure you save some of the copius amounts of bread that come with the other dishes to soak this wonder sauce up. Damn fine. The razor clams are cold and lackluster with a broadbean puree and astringent citrus dressing that leaves the dish missing any cohesion or interest.

This bar is all about sherry, something I know squat about (except that it is mostly produced in Spain), but the staff are more than happy to help I  guiding you through the sweet, dry crisp loveliness that is sherry. Most of the staff here have spent time working in Spain and know which tipple best suits the dishes ordered.

Upstairs takes reservations, but downstairs is the part of the restaurant that takes me back to Spain. Squeeze into a tiny table, eavesdrop on the next table over, eat great food and get merry.

Mon-Fri 11:00 am - 11:30 pm

6 Bulletin Place
Sydney NSW 2000
http://www.tapavino.com.au/