Tuesday 27 December 2011

Adriano Zumbo

Ah Zumbo.

Dessert darling of Sydney. The kids want to be you, the mums swoon for your macarons and the foodies queue every morning for your sweet treats.

I admire your daring approach to mixing flavours (coconut, green chilli and mango?) that manage to work despite misgivings but I feel that your celebrity has almost detracted from what you actually do.

Let me explain. I went to visit your shop in The Star. The set -up is reminiscent of a cartoon wonderland crossed with Ivy pool (the AstroTurf mainly). Trays of macarons line the cut-away kitchen, staff frantically piping the filling and delicately placing the two halves together. Large plastic bubbles float in the floor to ceiling windows containing delightful-looking treats. It is exciting to be sure. But sterile.

This vibe is not helped by the fact that you cannot enter the store without having a staff member invite you in, escort you round, and scribble down an order that I have no doubt some people feel pressured into placing. I only found this out when I was asked to leave the store and join the (non-existent, non-signposted) queue outside. So browsing is not allowed? Or the staff aren't capable of keeping enough of an eye out to notice when a browser becomes a buyer?


Well I left. Haven't been back in fact. I did have a squiz at the desert sushi train when it opened. I didn't see anything particularly fantastic going around. I believe the minimum price for any of the desert plates was $8.50. Quite steep when the plate size was definitely reminiscent of sushi-train sizes. My advice, don't try so hard. 

http://www.star.com.au/dine/the-chefs/adriano-zumbo.html