Tuesday, 19 February 2013

Ippodu


Just about everyone in Sydney has a favourite ramen joint. Often they are pokey, squished places filled with a chorus of slurping and sniffling. On a cold day (or a particularly trying one) nothing soothes the soul like some ramen. Even chicken soup cannot withstand the mighty awesomeness that is ramen. Recently a true force in Ramen has made it to our shores (no, not David Chang); Ippodu, the Fukuoka based ramen noodle brand whose name translates to ‘one wind hall’ (ominous) has set the local Japanese and student population abuzz. Ippodu was established in the southernmost major city in Japan in 1985 by Shigemi Kawahara, the three time TV champion Ramen Chef who has earned himself a place in the Ramen hall of Fame (I had no idea that existed either). This humble operation has spread from Japan to New York, Singapore and finally to us. Ippodu is located on the 5th floor food court area of the newly vamped Sydney City Westfield, it is the restaurant obscured by that big, thick line of people. Word has spread fast about this place. The Jet-Setter and I somehow manage to time it so that there is barely a queue; possibly it is because we are loitering around the city a little too late on a school night! The staff shout their enthusiastic ‘irasshaimase’ as we are guided past the central communal tables to a spot with plenty of elbow room along the far wall. In contrast to the many other ramen joints in Sydney there is plenty of space between the tables for gesticulation and noodle-wrangling purposes. The décor is all pine and slate, with what looks like pieces of roof tiles decorating one of the walls.

Our waiter breezes along and is so super bubbly that just having a chat to him raises the spirit of mentally drained, hungry me. We get some edamame (steamed soy beans) to start. They are lightly salted, still nice and firm; fresh. The Jet-Setter gets the famous Akamaru Tamago (tonkotsu broth) ramen with egg and I opt for a portion of Barramundi Saikyo Yaki. The Ramen is rich, garlicky, the pork tender and meaty. Oh it is ramen, the best ramen. The noodles are al dente so there is a slight bite to them. The Barramundi is miso marinated, a lovely and salty dish cut through with the sinus-clearing tang of wasabi sauce. I would recommend ordering rice on the side of this dish to bulk it out a bit. All this is washed down with two big glasses of ice-cold Asahi. Despite his best efforts the waiter can’t convince us to order desert, even though the black sesame pannacotta looks really good. And so it is off into the night, with tummies full of great Japanese food and enough money left over for some cocktails.

Westfield Sydney

Level 5

Sydney NSW 2000

Monday, 18 February 2013

The Morrisson


It has been a hectic few months culminating in a big win for me and I want oysters and a big glass of white damn it! Get me to The Morrison.

The Morrison Oyster Bar is the newest Sean Connelly offering and is located at the former Brooklyn Hotel site on the corner of George and Grosvenor St. While the Brooklyn never succeeded in luring me inside, it didn’t take long for the expanses of large white tiles, polished concrete and wooden floors of The Morrison to sell me. The whole place has a light, clean feeling reminiscent of a New York industrial warehouse/French bistro (yeah, well you try to describe it any better!). Given that it is a Friday the place is packed when I walk in, and the noise a little oppressive. The central bar is swamped, pumping out the signature Morrison cocktail, the now ubiquitous freshly squeezed apple juice and rye whiskey (thanks Shady Pines) and a wide range of oyster shooters accompanied by flavours such as mint, lemon and jalapeno.

The menu is a neat selection of re-vamped and twisted crowd pleasers divided by size and contents. The lighter and shared dishes include ‘chicken lollipops’ of southern fried chicken with chilli and molasses dip or the ‘flight of hams’, a study of three cured hams. There is also the My Diane, something not seen so regularly on menus in Sydney anymore, but a classic that I will always enjoy.

However I promised myself a nice selection of oysters as a treat. With a glass of French Chablis in hand I order a mixed dozen. The oysters here change based on availability and up on the board today we have Pambula and Port Stephens rock, and Hawkesbury Pacifics. The oysters are shucked fresh to order at a bar in the far left of the room and are delightful. I discover that The Morrison’s talents are not limited solely to oysters upon ordering the pork cutlet. This is a tricky cut of meat to do well. It must be cooked right the way through without drying out the meat. At The Morrison they serve it with a ‘green sauce’ containing kale, parsley, sage and other lovely herby things roughly blended and heaped generously on the cutlet. I didn’t think anything would ever outdo the apple as the accompaniment of choice for pork, but…well it happened. The fresh sauce cuts through the richness of the pork, making for a great dish. The greens with jamon crumbs are also very good, we end up licking the dish clean! Those crumbs be good. The other in the party (Dad) orders the dry aged hamburger served medium rare on a brioche bun, with chipotle mayo and duck fat chips. I don’t even get a look-in. He inhales it. That is probably the best recommendation that burger can have.

This place is relaxed enough to enjoy on any night of the week, and I have to go back to try some of the other fabulous sounding things on the menu.   
225 George St
Sydney, NSW 2000