Bar H

I have wanted to try Bar H since my sister (The Chef) helped a colleague put on a special dinner event here. But it is one of those places that kept getting pushed aside. It wasn't until a friend, whom I shall call the Jet-setter (super-secret code name) landed back in Oz and suggested it that I finally managed to drag myself in.

Bar H is just a short walk from central, sitting halfway up a street that after the usual 9-5 seems completely closed bar another little eatery on the adjacent corner that looks quite cute. All that marks the restaurant is a large H. Stepping over the threshold you forget you are in Sydney. Everything is dark, brooding colours broken up with warm woods and intricate graffiti art. On the left there are floor to ceiling windows lined by a banquette, a scattering of tables and wine bottles covering the wall. On the right is the open kitchen and a bar at which to perch and watch the goings-on. My partner (lets call him Cueball) has diligently selected a spot in the booths overlooking the kitchen.

As soon as I plop myself down I am offered the happy hour drinks menu (6-7pm, Tues-Fri); beer $5, wine $5.50, cocktails $10. I opt for a Gin Chi which is described as 'a zesty, tart, fresh little number', prescribed for a tough day that has left you 'out of whack'. It is just what I need after getting bogged down in journal articles at work. The staff are incredibly on the ball. Whenever a glass is empty (alcoholic or otherwise) it is topped up. It is relaxing to know that if we decided we wanted something urgently (wine, food, anti-venom) assistance was at hand. In fact this joint is the perfect place to catch up with friends you have not seen in a while, because nothing required much thought or effort. The wine list is a fantastic mix of local, French and Italian wines ranging from $45-$110. As the Jet-setter persues the list she insists we support the local wine-makers. I couldn't agree more, they do a bang-up job. To drink the boys go for Tiger beer, the ladies go for Ocean Eight Pinot Gris 2010, Mornington Perninsula.

When Mr. Muscles rocks up we quickly list the items we want. A plate of mixed moonlight en suface (beautiful little gems) and Claire de Lune oysters, steamed pork wontons, sashimi of black kingfish, and braised beef short rib to start. The wontons come sitting in a pool of beautiful spicy/sweet broth that tempts all of us to lift the bowl and slurp it up. We refrain. The sashimi of black kingfish is cut thinly and dressed in a tart, citrus dressing cut through with meaty shitake mushrooms. The beef shin is oh-so-tender, and the addition of peppery sesame leaves is something I haven't seen before. Love.The dishes come out one at a time due to space constraints at the table, but if you politely ask for two of the dishes at the same time the kitchen and floor staff are more than happy to oblige.

For mains we go; caramelised pork belly with fennel and mint, which is oh-my-god-so-good-want-more-so-fat-no (pork belly is my death row meal) and steamed jemfish. The flavours of the steamed jemfish are beautiful but the fish is served as a steak cut not a fillet. I have no problems with bones in fish (or heads and tails on fish) and I want to stab people with a fork who whinge and whine if they find a single bone. It is fresh fish, there may be bones. If you want a guarantee of no bones, go eat the processed muck. The only issue I have in this context is that given the atmospheric lighting of the restaurant it is hard to make sure you have removed all the bones before you take a gobfull.

Despite the fact that I am pretty full I can't pass up dessert of ginger custard. It is refreshing and light, the lime syrup adding the bit of sweetness needed to compliment the almost savoury custard. The jet-setter goes for sticky rice and red bean doughnuts which are all crispy and sugary goodness served with star anise ice cream which has a subtle smoky flavour rather than HI I'M LICORICE flavour (and I hate both star anise and licorice). Mr. Muscles opted for in-house made sorbet which had perfect texture and flavour.

I suppose the only problem of share dining is when there is that last skerric left everyone is too polite to just eat the goddamn thing. The other problem is it is so tasty that YOU want the last bit, but you feel bound by that crap called social protocol. That's the mark of a good meal. For the amount of food we ate, the quantity of beverages consumed and the top service we received the $70 price tag is spot-on. I'm keen to go back.

http://www.barhsurryhills.com/