Graze

It’s Friday night after a very long week at work. I have tickets to go see ‘The Beards’ at the Manning Bar, but they won’t be taking the stage till about 10 pm. My date, being the workaholic he is won’t be out of work until 8 pm so I have a few hours to kills. Hey Mum fancy dinner out? My treat? Deal.

I have wanted to try this share-plate restaurant in Pyrmont since it first opened its doors to reveal a funky, mod interior that is all light wood furnishings and dark walls with large French windows that open out onto Harris Street on a hot night.  My thinking was ‘why not give it a try for lovely lady-night-out’? Surprisingly Graze has space to squeeze a last minute booking for two on a Friday, only if we come straight away though. So come we do.

Mum and I are escorted upstairs to a nicely spaced dining room decorated in the same style as downstairs. There is a balcony that faces onto Harris street with counter-space and seating for four diners, an ideal people-watching spot I’ll be sure to nab next time (especially on a Saturday; the crowds that go to the Casino are hilarious! Ladies the world is not your gynaecologist). Despite the emptiness of the restaurant at this early dinner hour the atmosphere is intimate and relaxed, none of that awkward whispering-until-the-room-fills required. The staff, are among the best I have encountered, they are ever-present, never intrusive, have perfect timing and are happy to chat and have a laugh. Furthermore they are not ‘gimicky’ (as much fun as that is at times), they are just really good at what they do. 

So what to eat? Well the jamon and cheese toasty with cauliflower milkshake just sounds too good to pass up. The toasties are mini, buttery and crispy, with the warm cauliflower milkshake served in a mini Perspex milk carton. How fun! We also get truffled duck egg on toast with parmesan and grilled asparagus. These little soft-poached gems are stunning. The earthy truffle combined with the bite of parmesan, crunchy toast and asparagus make for a dish that should be on every cafes lunch menu. Simple, not fussy, ever so perfect. The soft shell crab with native finger lime dressing is also lovely, but my heart belongs to the duck eggs.

For mains we have chicken wings with sweet potato puree and corn that has a lovely balance of sweet and salty. The wings have been nicely de-boned so you can eagerly stuff your face with the juicy, tender meat. The second main of filo wrapped lamb doesn’t quite hit the right notes though. The pastry isn’t as light and fluffy as we would have liked, and it isn’t ample enough to absorb the juices from the lamb mince. While the pastry has remained crisp, there isn’t a flavour that comes through strongly enough to be the centrepiece of the meal. It is a bit flat. All this food is washed down with a lovely Italian wine that I randomly select (I am really flying blind here, Australian wine is the only type I know anything about) and it turns out to be lovely (but naturally too much led me to forget the name of it). Reminds me a lot of a granache, mourvedre blended with something else. Smooth.  

Desert consists of Eaton mess, strawberries, meringue and cream has all the right components, but not enough meringue and a bit too much cream. The balance of flavours needs work. The espresso crème brulee with rhubarb has lovely texture and the interesting combination of espresso and rhubarb is nice. I could go another one to myself (we had to share didn’t we?).

Overall this place is warm and welcoming, a lovely option if you want to linger of nice wine and food to catch up with friends, family or the other half you keep neglecting for episodes of revenge.   

http://grazepyrmont.com.au/