It happens to be pissing down
with rain thanks to the remnants of cyclone Oswald, so it is the perfect day to
be inside with good food and nice cocktails. Unfortunately everyone else
wandering around Sydney seems to have the same idea. Luckily my forward-thinking
mother booked us the best table in the house (I’m not telling you which one) in
advance, so we are quickly whisked from the wet doorway to our cosy nook.
Those of you who are fans of the
Merivale group will know that Mr. Wong has replaced the former nightclub Tank,
but the last thing this place feels like is a converted bar. There are thick
wooden beams, dark green tiles, 1920’s light fittings and an eclectic mixture
of wooden furniture, both modern and colonial. A healthy bustle fills the
space, which takes up two floors. Only the upper floor is open for lunch
service, and the space is full. At the far right end there is a kitchen replete
with a few benches for customers who enjoy watching the carnage in the kitchen,
and large glass case full of BBQ chicken, pork and pecking duck. Quite a
display! In the middle is the dumpling kitchen, and round the corner to the
left is a beautifully stocked cocktail bar.
The menu is styled much like the
one at your local Chinese; dumplings and raw dishes are listed first and
subsequent dishes are categorised either by meat or noodles and rice. There are
even banquet menus ranging from $68 to $148. The selection of dishes is
comprehensive enough to cover all your favourites (including sweet and sour
pork), but not so large you get lost. Even if you do flounder a bit the
crisply-dressed staff are extremely helpful. We start with a selection of
dumplings, which are apparently designed by a master dumpling chef from London
of all places! The lobster mei si roll is crisp and contains a surprise vein of
cheese and a slither of fragrant greens; beautifully balanced. The Xiao Long
Bao, or ‘soup’ dumplings are just perfection. The translucent asparagus and
scallop dumplings with XO sauce are equally satisfying. Looks like the
head-hunting for an kick-arse dumpling chef paid off.
Now all of you know how big a fan
I am of the steak tartare at Ms. G’s, so when I saw the Sichuan spiced steak
tartare on Mr. Wong’s menu you know I had to give it a try. The floral Sichuan
pepper and garlic marry well with the rich red meat. It is a very satisfying
interpretation. We also order the five spice slow roast belly pork with Hoi
Sin. It is tender with perfectly rendered fat, and the lovely crispy spiced
skin is satisfying to bite through. We also order the stir-fried rice noodles
with Wagyu beef, bean sprouts and garlic chives. This dish is possibly the only
one I wouldn’t bother ordering again. This sweet dish is missing any depth. It
could do with either some acid or spice to lift it.
I am so, so in love. Thank you
Merivale group. You have your critics, but I am not one of them.
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